I love gumbo. Several years ago I was lucky enough to go to New Orleans and sample it at many of their wonderful restaurants. I also purchased a couple of local cookbooks, hoping to find the perfect recipe so I could make it here.
Without fresh crawfish or live crabs I had to develop a recipe that took into consideration the availability of ingredients in Juneau. I like okra, a vegetable thought to have been brought over by enslaved Africans. Fresh is preferred but I end up using frozen because it is what is available locally. Fortunately andouille sausage can be found local stores. If you truly dislike okra, you can leave it out, but I recommend you try it in this recipe at least the first time.
The term gumbo is from a an African word meaning okra, and the stew or soup is from ingredients and culinary practices of several cultures including West African, French, German, Spanish and Native American Choctaw, and has been part of Louisiana culinary history since the early 19th century. Gumbo recipes vary widely throughout the south, but some ingredients are always used. One is the roux which can take a half hour or more of constant attention while it turns a deep dark brown. Without it a true gumbo doesn’t exist. The other is the “trinity,” celery, onion and green pepper that is a signature aspect of the soup.
Ingredients:
½ cup cooking oil
¾ cup flour
1 ½ tablespoons finely chopped garlic
1 cup chopped onion
1 large green pepper, diced
1 cup celery, diced
1 pound okra (available frozen in local stores) sliced thin
½ cup parsley
1 can tomatoes, pureed
2 bay leaves
1 teaspoon thyme
½ teaspoon each: black pepper, red pepper, Cajun seasoning
1 pound andouille sausage sliced thin and sautéed in a little oil
2 pounds best quality shrimp, shelled (save the shells)
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Step One: (prepping)
Peel and devein two pounds of wild-caught shrimp. Place the shelled shrimp into the refrigerator until ready to use. Put the shells into a large pot and add 2 quarts of water, some celery leaves, a sprig of parsley and a piece of onion. Bring to a boil and let simmer for 30 minutes then strain the stock into a gallon container and set aside.
Step Two: Making the roux
This is the most important part of the gumbo and the most time consuming. Constant attention must be paid to the roux which must be stirred constantly with a wooden spoon at medium to low heat until it turns dark brown. Don’t take your eyes off of it more than a few seconds or it will burn. If it does, you will have the throw the whole mess out and start over. Emeril Lagasse describes it a “two-beer roux.” Think at least 30 minutes of stirring.
Step Three: Additions
Saute sausage in a little oil until it turns light brown. Turn off heat, remove from pan and set aside. Into the same pan add onion, celery and bell pepper and sauté at medium heat until soft.
Step Four:
When the roux is dark brown, add the sliced okra and stir for about five minutes until it become soft. Add the vegetables (including the garlic) and the sausage to the roux mixture. Pour the shrimp stock into the roux/vegetable mixture. Add bay leaves, thyme, parsley and salt to taste. Bring to a boil then let simmer for at least an hour. Taste the gumbo several times while it cooks, adding salt, cayenne pepper or other seasonings until you are happy with the flavors.
Step Five:
After about an hour add the shelled shrimp. After they have simmered for a couple of minutes the soup is done. Over cooking will make the shrimp tough.
This recipe produces over a gallon of soup. It is perfect for party and freezes in individual containers beautifully.
• Patty Schied is a longtime Juneau resident who studied at the Cordon Bleu in London, has cooked meals for both AWARE and the Glory Hall, and has written a cookbook. Cooking For Pleasure appears every other week in Capital City Weekly.
