What is a Pastel de Nata? Every pastelaria in Portugal has its secret recipe for this delightful little custard tart, and there are many regional variations. Belém, home of the Monument to the Discoveries and the Belém Tower, is known for its version, Pasteis de Belém, which pastry patrons devour fresh from the oven or transport home in cardboard tubes. The pastry is flaky and crisp; the custard is sweet and dense. And watch out! They are addictive.

One Juneau resident sampled a version I made at Pie in the Sky and proclaimed, "They're crack!"

This was, admittedly, a tiny tart and not a completely authentic version. That would require a batch of Massa Folhada, which is like a cross between true puff pastry and phyllo dough. Not only is it hard to find a good recipe in English, but Portuguese measurements, baking temperatures, flour and butter varieties are different enough that direct translations don't work well on the first few tries. (This stuff takes work.) Nor do the Portuguese top their Natas with wild Alaska berries, of course.

But we can, so we do.

For this pastry, you can use phyllo for a stiffer tart. Or you can use your favorite recipe for real puff pastry. And in a pinch, even commercial puff pastry available frozen in the supermarket will work.

To make something like the "crack" version, start a day ahead and act as if you are making puff pastry but less formally. Nevertheless, the more folds will make for a flakier pastry. Use enough pie dough for a large single crust and ¼ cup low-water unsalted butter. Chill, chill, chill.

For tart shells, grease cupcake tins. Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Cut half of your layered dough and roll out into a long rectangle, less than 1/8 inch thick. Cut squares to cover the bottom and sides of your tins, leaving corners hanging over if you want inauthentic but convenient lifters. Press the pastry into corners using fingers or a tamper. Repeat with the other half of the dough or keep it chilled for later.

To make enough filling for a dozen tartlets, mix 1 cup sugar and 1 tablespoon cornstarch. Stir in six egg yolks and 1 ½ cups heavy cream. (Variations: add cinnamon and/or vanilla, substitute flour or milk.)

Pour batter into unbaked shells to ⅔ full. Bake 20 minutes or until set and browned on top.

Here's the best part: Top each tart with a tablespoon of salmonberries and/or thimbleberries that you have lovingly transported home, rinsed and sprinkled with an optional bit of sugar (which helps preserve them in the fridge) and chilled.

Decorate with whipped cream if you like. Or, bake the shells blind, allow to cool, and fill only with whipped cream topped with berries. Or ... you get the idea.

Fantastic. "Like crack!" Enjoy!

• Andrea Mogil can be contacted at PieintheSkyAK@aol.com.