Web posted July 26, 2007

Skagway's libation situation shines

By Keith Crocker
Bars and Bartending

  Keith Crocker
In my quest for interesting bars, I found myself in Skagway recently. This bustling town was packed with tourists, as is to be expected at this time of year.

The first thing I noticed was many of the tourists were drinking as early as 10 a.m.! My experience in Juneau has been that most tourists are on excursions for most of the day and don't make it to the local watering holes until late in the afternoon.

I started my brief tour of Skagway with a drinking establishment called the Skagway Brewing Co. Like most venues in Skagway, its roots go back to 1898. Having undergone an extensive and obvious remodel, this brewery boasts a large selection of beers from around the world, including some great brews from Canada, England, Belgium and the Pacific Northwest.

Although not in full production yet, I anticipate some exciting new brews being formulated as you read this article. Rumor has it that the Skagway Brewing Co. may have its own products available in as little as three weeks. Having a friendly, knowledgeable staff, a nice clean atmosphere and a great menu will make this establishment a sure winner. I look forward to my next visit.

Next on my list was the famous Red Onion Saloon. Although skeptical of standard tourist-orientated bars and the short line out front, I decided to give it a go and see what it was all about. Every seat in the house was full, and it was only noon. After managing my way to the bar and obtaining a seat, I found the atmosphere to be similar to what I expected: ragtime music and women dressed as old-time prostitutes.

What I appreciated the most was that the cheesiness was kept to a minimum and the place ran like a Swiss clock. All the employees, from bartenders to cooks, knew exactly what was going on, and I saw no signs of the usual poor attitude that many bar workers exhibit this time of year. I enjoyed the fact that it was a real historic bar in a real historic building with the authenticity shinning through.

The bar had one of the better wine lists I have seen in Alaska bars with 12 wines by the glass and an actual bottle of champagne available. The beer selection was no less impressive with 14 available drafts and five by the bottle. The menu was three pages long and included everything from chili lime chicken wings to salads, sandwiches and a choice of nine different pizzas.

What made the place even more impressive was its high customer volume and its very small kitchen.

What I noticed the most in Skagway was the professionalism and organization of these establishments. Massive volume is generally hard to deal with, but these bars manage to keep it fun and rolling. The idea of having good menus and fully operational kitchens is a great concept. Alcohol was more often than not meant to be enjoyed with food, making for a more interesting experience. Perhaps some of the establishments in Juneau will take note.

See you down at the bar, or maybe, in Skagway.

• Keith Crocker can be contacted at kpcrocker@gmail.com.

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