Web posted June 7, 2007

Spruce up those baked goodies with this tip

By Andrea Mogil

  Andrea Mogil
Baking and Beyond: Cool Southeast Alaska treats

The Sitka Spruce, Picea sitchensis, is Alaska's state tree. Tall and strong, spruce trees provide perches for eagles and Christmas ornaments, wood for planes and houses, boats and beautiful musical instruments, roots for weaving, and resin for pitch.

Its long fibers are ideal for paper production too, an attribute that helped make spruce a mainstay of the Southeast Alaska economy in the 20th century.

We can easily recognize the Sitka Spruce by its erect posture, its stiff, sharp evergreen needles and long cylindrical cones. In the late spring and early summer, its boughs are tipped with tender, light new growth that contrasts with the deep blue-green of mature foliage.

These spruce tips open up a whole new realm of uses.

Pick some yourself and find out. By mid-June, you might need to find a shaded grove or climb up your favorite Juneau mountain to get tips at their tender, barely open best, but they are still OK at sea level in many places.

Roll them between your fingers to pick up the refreshing scent. Nibble on some, and you will find that fragrance captured in flavor in a combination that suggests a cross between sorrel and mint.

The tartness in spruce tips comes from an abundance of Vitamin C. Eaten whole or brewed into tea, they are a traditional preventative for scurvy in a place where citrus trees can't survive.

Some people cook spruce tips into a tasty syrup. Others have discovered the wonderful tang spruce tips can add to winter ale or a piece of salmon.

Spruce tips are great for baking, too. Their refreshing, aromatic bite lends itself to combinations with citrus, nuts, and sweets.

For example, try something a little unconventional for breakfast or mid-afternoon break by adding spruce tips chopped fine to your favorite scone dough, along with whole pine nuts.

This subtle combination of flavors and textures makes currants or dried cranberries seem mundane.

If you enjoy rich, creamy desserts, add spruce tips to creme brulee. Start a day ahead of when you plan to eat.

For four or five servings, chop a half cup of spruce tips into 2 cups of heavy whipping cream. Bring it just to boiling, skim, allow to cool to room temperature, then cover and refrigerate overnight.

The next day, at least four hours before serving, preheat an oven to 300 degrees F.

Whisk 6 egg yolks with 3/8 cup sugar and a pinch of salt. Reheat cream to just under boiling and add it to yolks by pouring slowly through a strainer into which a quarter of a lemon has been coarsely zested, stirring yolks constantly.

Press the spruce tips collected in the strainer to extract remaining flavor into the yolk and cream mix.

Clean the strainer and restrain the mix into four or five ramekins which have been placed in a baking pan.

Fill the pan with boiling water up to half the level of the brulee batter. Bake covered for half an hour or until centers are almost set. Remove pan from oven, take ramekins out of water and allow to cool to room temperature. Refrigerate until firm.

Just before serving, burn sugar on top using your favorite method.

Enjoy!

• You can reach Andrea Mogil at PieintheSkyAK@aol.com.

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